It has taken an absolute age, (as in months) to get the trike back from the dealers. Gone to a new dealer who could not be more helpful. Real difference from the original down near Leeds. This one near Shrewsbury has given the trike a complete once over and really knows his stuff.
The dealer even went over to Germany and was speaking to the head of engineering about the problems with the gear cassette which causes a 3 mil wobble. This is ‘within normal manufacturer tolerances’. It must be a design flaw according to the dealer as there were plenty of bikes in the factory with the same problem. He thinks there will be an eventual recall once they get things worked out.
The bike has not done a huge total mileage (as in 300 miles). It is on its third cassette. Second set of chains, second set of drive shafts. Bit scary that. The repair bill looks like over 16 hours of building and rebuilding and a complete back end of bits. Thankfully it has all been done under warranty.
The gears were knackered, cassette was hanging off after not being torqued properly, rear shafts bulging, new bearings, the list goes on.
Up front the schlumpf drive has the correct parts fitted, so now the seat will not get ripped and pierced by the drive.
The smile on my face getting this trike back was priceless.
The only downer was that after being sunny all day, as soon as I sat on the tractor it decided to chuck it down.
A. One big clue to choosing a good trike that will last many years is to look at which ones are selling consistently well. If a company is producing inferior trikes, sooner or later their business will dry up. They can only cheap-out for so long before the word gets out. With today’s internet forum […]
via What should I consider when choosing a new trike? — Trike Asylum
Really struggled to get Hase to respond to request for routing for brake pipes on hydraulic rear brakes. They bend badly when the trike is folded. Solution by dealer was to tiewrap the buckled pipe to frame. Seems a bit heath Robinson
No solution forthcoming.
Any one else got a solution
Shame, the trike is off the road again. The rear cassette is very loose. It is quite a big job to fix. The suspension needs to be loosened and the differential disconnected to allow tightening. It was fitted by the dealer a few hundred miles back. This was to replace the original which had teeth stripped. The teeth stripping was as a result of the design of the tandem coupling catching.
The dealer did not want to replace the cassette, but after a few emails Hase agreed to its replacement and fitting. I think this would have cost around £150 to do. Ouch!
Removing the differential and replacing the cassette
The differential requires no maintenance and must only be removed
when replacing the cassette.
1. Unscrew the two M6 locknuts (1) on the sway-bar mounting
2. Unscrew the M8 locknut (2) on the rear-shock mount using a
13mm wrench (spanner).
3. Loosen the Allen bolt (3) on the axle clamp using a 5mm
4. Slide the rubber bellows (4) to the left, away from the differential
5. Pull the left axle assembly (5) approx. 10 cm (4”) out of the
frame tube and the differential. There is a 10mm hexagon
socket in the side of the differential.
6. Bracing the right wheel, insert a 10mm Allen key in the hexagon
socket of the differential (6, in diagram on next page), and
unscrew the differential with the cassette from the right drive
shaft by turning the differential clockwise (attention: left-hand
Upon reassembly, the differential must be tightened with a
torque of 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs). Use assembly grease on the
7. Remove the differential with the cassette. Then you can
detach the cassette.
8. Brace the cassette with a chain whip, and unscrew the sprocket
bolt using a freewheel remover.
9. Pull the cassette off the freewheel.
10. Attach a new cassette by following these steps in the reverse
When installing the new cassette, make sure that the shim
(7) is lying flat and not wedged at an angle beneath the twopart
bearing seat (8).
Lubricate the contact surfaces in the differential (6) with a
solid lubricant before you insert the left axle assembly into
the hexagon socket.
11. Slide the rubber bellows (4) back onto the end of the left axle
assembly. Align the rectangular socket in the side of the differential
with the slot nuts on the end of the left axle assembly.
Then slide the left axle assembly as far as it will go into the
axle tube, while guiding the slot nuts into the rectangular slot
of the differential.
12. Tighten the M6 Allen bolt (3) with a torque of 9 Nm (6.6 ftlbs).
Replace and tighten the M8 locknut (2) on the rear-shock
mount with a torque of 23 Nm (17 ft-lbs).
It is essential that the M6 bolts (3) of the axle clamp be
tightened with a torque of 9 Nm (6.6 ft-lbs).
13. Replace and tighten the two M6 locknuts (1) on the sway-bar
What looks like a cross between a bike helmet and a high-heeled shoe could help usher in another wave of personal electric assisted vehicles. Source: http://www.treehugger.com/bikes/sinclair-iris-etrike-velomobile-50-mile-range.html
via Fully-enclosed IRIS eTrike is an electric assist velomobile with a 50-mile range — Nutrition Mad
The Pannorider Solar Velomobile is a rather interesting concept. It hails from Hungary, however it is not yet in production to my knowledge. Most solar powered “velocars” don’t look much like what we think of as far as traditional velomobiles. They are usually “boxier” and sit higher. An example is the ELF. With the exception of […]
via PANNONRIDER SOLAR VELOMOBILE — Tadpole Rider